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Plumbing

Faucets, Toilets & Fixtures

Most fixture problems are one worn soft part, and most are cheap to fix. Whether the fix holds for years or six months depends on whether anybody looked at what killed the part.

A toilet that refills itself at two in the morning. A shower valve that gives you forty seconds of warm water and then makes its own decisions. Nearly all of it is one small soft part that has given up, and most of it is cheap to put right. The part worth understanding is that the soft part rarely failed on its own.

Your water is slowly chewing on the rubber in your house

Gloved hands tightening a supply line beneath a bathroom vanity below a new chrome fixture
Supply line being tightened under a vanity, new fixture already set.

Almost nobody connects this to a dripping toilet. Every public water system here disinfects with chloramine, which is chlorine combined with ammonia, rather than free chlorine. Fairfax Water treats the Occoquan supply that most of eastern Prince William drinks, and Prince William Water names Fairfax Water and the City of Manassas as its suppliers, both on chloramines. Loudoun Water explains the appeal: chloramine breaks down far more slowly, so a residual survives further out in the mains. That staying power is also why it sits against the rubber in your fixtures for longer.

Then the utility says the consequence out loud, which saves us having to claim it. From Loudoun Water’s customer water quality guidance, verbatim: “Both chlorine and chloramines will degrade elastomer materials (rubber materials) over time, however chloramines will typically degrade them at a faster rate than chlorine. Customers will periodically need to change their rubber gaskets in their homes, such as in the sinks, faucets and toilets.” A water utility, in its July 2011 manual, telling homeowners that flappers and faucet O-rings and supply-line gaskets are consumables.

Two limits on that. Loudoun Water publishes no replacement interval and we could not find an independent one, so anyone quoting you a number of years for a flapper is guessing. And it says gaskets. It does not mean your copper or your PEX is dissolving.

There is a seasonal version too. Each spring the suppliers run free chlorine instead of chloramine for several weeks to flush the mains, and free chlorine is the more aggressive oxidant. Fairfax Water published its 2026 window as 23 March to 26 May. The dates move annually, so check your utility rather than this page. A gasket that was nearly done often picks that window to quit.

What wears out, and what outlives the house

The china is almost never the problem. InterNACHI’s life expectancy chart puts toilets, bidets and urinals at 100 years or more, and the tank components inside them at five. One fixture, two different clocks. EPA WaterSense agrees from the other side: the flapper “should be checked periodically and replaced at least every five years.”

Published service lives for the parts inside a fixture, and the ones nobody publishes
PartPublished figureWho published it
Toilet tank components (fill valve, flapper, flush valve)5 yearsInterNACHI life expectancy chart
Toilet flapper specificallyCheck periodically, replace at least every 5 yearsEPA WaterSense
The toilet itself100+ yearsInterNACHI, listed as toilets, bidets and urinals
Faucets and spray hose15 to 20 yearsInterNACHI
Hose bibs20 to 30 yearsInterNACHI
Faucet cartridge, mixing valve, aeratorNo figure published at any water hardnessNobody. We looked
Braided stainless supply lineNo published service lifeIBHS documents the failure modes but gives no interval
Washing machine hosesReplace every 3 to 5 yearsState Farm, as an insurer’s recommendation, not a code rule
Pressure reducing valveRebuilt with a service kit, not swapped on a scheduleWatts, the manufacturer, calls it a life-of-mortgage part

The blank rows matter as much as the filled ones. Nobody publishes a service life for a faucet cartridge or a fill valve at a given hardness, so we will not print one. The braided supply line is the part most people read wrong. IBHS describes it properly: a plastic hose inside a stainless braid, with threaded connectors and internal rubber gaskets. The braid is abrasion protection, not the thing holding pressure. What kills the inner tube and gaskets, per IBHS, is wear, handling damage, excess pressure, heat and water quality.

Those connectors do most of the damage. In the insurance institute’s brochure, hosted by the Connecticut Insurance Department, 78 percent of water damage incidents involving toilets traced to faulty supply lines, flanges, fill valve assemblies or overflows. For sinks it was 44 percent down to supply lines. For icemakers, 73 percent. The fixture takes the blame and the connector did it.

The new faucet that still behaves badly

People buy a good fixture, have it fitted, and feel cheated when it performs like the one it replaced. Usually nothing feeding it changed. A stop valve that has not been turned in twenty years. An angle stop that weeps the moment you touch it. An aerator packed with scale. We would rather change the stop and the line while the fixture is off than come back for them. Where the piping itself is the limit, the decade the house went up tells you most of it, which is what pipe materials by decade is for.

Scale is real here without being dramatic. Prince William Water publishes East and West system hardness at 3.5 to 7.0 grains per gallon, classified moderately hard, with Bull Run Mountain, Evergreen and Hoadly Manor in the harder band above, so which system your street sits on is worth checking. EPA says homes with significant hardness may see mineral and scale formation on plumbing fixtures, which is what you find when you unscrew an aerator here. The same utility page states there is no primary or secondary standard for hardness at all. A nuisance, not a contaminant.

None of which turns a worn cartridge into a treatment problem. A softener reduces hardness and carries no chloramine claim, so it does nothing about what is actually working on your gaskets, and EPA lists filtration as not removing dissolved minerals. Our page on softeners and treatment covers where equipment does earn its place.

Pressure is the cause nobody asks about

Watts, which manufactures pressure reducing valves, treats anything above 60 psi as generally high and names dripping faucets among the symptoms. The Virginia Residential Code sets the ceiling: static pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi, and above that a pressure reducing valve is required at the service connection. Prince William Water uses the same 80 psi trigger. If a house runs high, you can replace every cartridge in it and the drips come back.

A pressure reducing valve or a check valve also makes the house a closed system, and the code then requires a means of controlling the pressure thermal expansion creates when the water heater fires. Usually an expansion tank, though the code says a means, not a tank. It matters here because those spikes are absorbed by whatever is weakest, and on our calls that is a fill valve or a faucet seal.

When a fixture job needs a permit, and when it does not

Worth knowing, so here it is straight. The 2021 Virginia Uniform Statewide Building Code, in effect since January 18 2024, lists ordinary repairs needing no permit and no inspection. Item 14.2 of Section 108.2 covers “Replacement of plumbing fixtures and well pumps in all groups without alteration of the water supply and distribution systems, sanitary drainage systems, or vent systems.” The second half is where it ends.

  • Like-for-like swap of a faucet, toilet, sink or tub with no change to supply, drain or vent piping: no permit, under 108.2 item 14.2.
  • Moving a flange, re-running a trap arm, adding a fixture, changing pipe material: that is an alteration, so Section 108.1 puts you back in permit territory.
  • No permit does not mean no rules. The exemption “shall not be construed to exempt such activities from other applicable requirements of this code.”
  • Want the paperwork anyway? Ask, and 108.2 says “a permit shall be issued and any related inspections shall be required.” Useful before a sale.
  • A homeowner may apply personally under Section 108.3, and no applicant may be required to appear in person.

What we actually get called out for

  • Running, phantom-filling and cycling toilets: flapper, fill valve, flush valve seat
  • Wax ring and flange work on a toilet that rocks or weeps at the base
  • Dripping and seized taps, cartridge and seat work, full faucet replacement
  • Shower and tub valves that will not hold a temperature, anti-scald cartridges included
  • Diverters that refuse to switch, and frost-proof hose bibs
  • Stops and braided lines changed while the fixture is off, the cheap moment to do it
  • New vanities, sinks, toilets, laundry boxes, fridge lines and pot fillers
  • Toilets that clog on a schedule, usually the line rather than the toilet
  • A drip with no visible cause, where leak detection comes before guessing at parts

Why the small job gets the same treatment as the big one

Same firm price agreed before we start, same drop cloths down, same clean-up, same people. Plenty of outfits treat a faucet swap as a nuisance between real jobs. It is how a lot of our long-standing customers first met us. Office hours run 7 to 5, and after that Jon takes the calls himself. We will not pretend a truck is coming at 3am for a dripping tap.

Common Questions

Is a dripping tap worth calling about?
EPA WaterSense puts a faucet dripping once per second at more than 3,000 gallons a year, and names worn washers and gaskets as a frequent cause. Left running, the drip wears the seat that part is meant to seal against, and a cartridge job becomes a fixture job.
How would I know my toilet is leaking if I cannot hear it?
Dye test, described above, and it is free. For scale, EPA WaterSense reports nine percent of homes have leaks wasting 50 gallons or more a day, and that average household leaks account for more than 9,300 gallons a year.
I just put a new flapper in and it is running again. Now what?
Three suspects. The fill valve is passing water, so the tank overfills into the overflow tube where you never see it. The flush valve seat is scarred or scaled, so no new flapper seals on it. Or house pressure is high enough that nothing seals for long. The third gets missed most.
Does hard water mean I need a softener to stop this happening?
No, and we would rather say so. Prince William Water states there is no primary or secondary standard for hardness, and the local figures are moderately hard to hard, not the extreme hardness of the desert Southwest. A softener reduces hardness. It does nothing about chloramine, which is what is working on your gaskets.
Do I need a permit to replace a toilet or a faucet in Virginia?
Not for a like-for-like swap. USBC 108.2 item 14.2 exempts replacement of plumbing fixtures where you do not alter the supply and distribution, sanitary drainage or vent systems. Move the flange or re-run the trap arm and 108.1 brings the permit back. Borderline jobs get a call to the locality, not a guess.
Can I pull the permit myself if I want one?
Yes. Section 108.3 lets the owner or lessee apply, allows it by mail, and provides that in no case may an applicant be required to appear in person. You can also request a permit on exempt work, and the locality then has to issue it and inspect.
Should I replace the braided supply lines while you are here?
Often yes, and here is the honest basis. Nobody publishes a service life for a braided stainless supply line. State Farm recommends replacing washing machine hoses every three to five years, which is an insurer talking about one specific hose, not a code requirement. We go on the condition of the tube and gaskets, and the house pressure.
Why do my fixtures seem worse in spring?
Because the water changes. Each spring the suppliers run free chlorine instead of chloramine for several weeks to flush the mains, and free chlorine is the more aggressive oxidant. Fairfax Water published 23 March to 26 May for 2026, and the dates shift annually.
Only one fixture has weak pressure. Is something wrong with the main?
Unlikely. At a single fixture it is nearly always the aerator or the stop valve feeding it. Weak pressure everywhere is a different hunt, and here it is more often a pressure reducing valve that has drifted, a main valve left partly closed, or corroded galvanised pipe than it is scale. We do not blame scale first.
My toilet clogs every few weeks. Is the toilet faulty?
Sometimes, but repeated clogging points more often at the branch line or the main than at the fixture. After the second time, a camera is a better spend than a third plunging. That is drain cleaning territory.
Do I buy the fixture or do you?
Either. If you have already bought a faucet or toilet we will fit it. If you would rather we sourced it, we will, and we will tell you what we would put in our own house.
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